Sesquicentennial oeniphilia
— by Shelley Boettcher
You can keep the little collector pins, the made-in-China T-shirts, and the tacky baseball caps.
When it comes to celebrating Canada’s 150th, I want wine. Canadian wine.
From coast to coast (and, perhaps if there’s enough global warming, to coast?), our country’s wineries are making some world-class vintages from some of the world’s finest grapes. And there’s plenty to choose from. According to the Canadian Vintners Association and Global Wine Database, Canada now has more than 700 wineries making roughly 5,500 wines. (Find out more at www.vinerra.com)
In other words, you could taste a different Canadian wine every day for the next 15 years, if you want.
Here, is a starter list of seven wonderful sippers to track down now.
Township 7 2016 7 Blanc
(Okanagan Valley, British Columbia)
Township 7 has two locations: one on the famous Naramata Bench and a second location in Langley in B.C.’s Fraser Valley. In fact, the winery gets its name from the fact that the historic community of South Langley’s original name was Township 7.
One of my favourite Okanagan blends for summer, this off-dry white is super-easy to drink, with hints of spice, citrus and flowers. A blend of Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Viognier, with just a touch of Riesling, it pairs with a huge variety of dishes, including smoked salmon, roast chicken, pork or Chinese takeout. Or just enjoy it by itself. Serve chilled. About $20.
Evolve Cellars 2016 Effervescence
(Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada)
Canadian wine legend Harry McWatters and his family are behind this fun fizz, which is sealed with a crown cap (like a beer bottle) instead of a traditional cork closure. Serve chilled as an aperitif, or combine with fresh orange juice for a mimosa or with a bit of blackcurrant syrup for a Canuck spin on a kir royale. About $23.
Therapy Vineyards 2016 Pink Freud
(Okanagan Valley, British Columbia)
If you love the idea of staying at a winery, check out Therapy Vineyard’s guesthouse. Literally located at the winery, it’s lovely and intimate, whether you’re looking for a place for a romantic evening or a spot to bring your entire family together. With eight self-contained suites, it accommodates up to 22 people.
And don’t forget the wine. The Therapy team may have lots of fun with its labels, but the wine inside is always seriously good. This intense pink wine is fruity and fragrant, with loads of raspberry, pomegranate, green tea and cranberry flavours. About $20.
Burrowing Owl 2014 Cabernet Franc
(Okanagan Valley, British Columbia)
Many Okanagan wineries excel at making great Cabernet Franc, and Burrowing Owl is no exception. This beauty has loads of floral, spicy, dark fruit notes, with a hint of graphite and chocolate. Try with chicken or duck, or save for a Thanksgiving turkey dinner in the fall. About $50.
House Wine Co. 2016 Red
(Niagara Peninsula, Ont., Canada)
From the Speck family, who own the renowned Henry of Pelham winery, House Wine Co. is about unpretentious, easy-drinking, food-friendly wines crafted from 100 per cent Niagara grapes.
This fresh youthful red fits that description perfectly. Because the House Wine team says they “will not talk about fruit-forward flavours…We will not discuss the long, elegant finish,” I won’t either. Just know that this one is very quaffable and very fun. One to sip around the fire while eating homemade burgers. About $18.
Benjamin Bridge 2016 Tidal Bay
(Tidal Bay, Nova Scotia, Canada)
Nova Scotia’s first official appellation, Tidal Bay works a bit differently than typical appellation designations, which are based on geographical locations.
Tidal Bay, rather, refers to a white wine made in Nova Scotia, from 100 per cent Nova Scotia-grown grapes, typically a blend. The finest examples are fresh and crisp, with a distinctive, almost salty mineral note.
Take this one, for instance. Made from a beautiful blend of L’Acadie, Ortega and Geisenheim grapes, this medium-full-bodied white wine has aromas of wet stone and lime and, on the palate, loads of fruit flavours, including green apple and citrus. Enjoy by itself, chilled, or with seafood. About $25.
Sperling Vineyards 2015 Market White
(Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada)
Born and raised in the Okanagan Valley, winemaker Ann Sperling has been making quality wines for more than 25 years, at some well-known wineries including Southbrook Vineyards, Malivoire Wine Company and Creekside Estate Winery in Ontario’s Niagara region, as well as the Okanagan’s CedarCreek Estate Winery in the early days, and, more recently, Versado in Argentina.
But her eponymous project is, of course, Sperling Vineyards, located partly on land that her great-grandparents farmed decades ago.
At Sperling, she and her team make a vast array of wines, including this fresh, zingy white blend. And the new label! It’s cool, colourful and modern — just like the wine inside. Serve chilled, with smoked salmon, a bucket of mussels or one of those grocery-store roast chickens. About $20.
To learn more about Canadian wine
Fine Vintage Ltd. offers a Canadian Wine Scholar certification program, with courses in Calgary in Fall 2017. For more information, go to finevintageltd.com.
Attend the Fall Okanagan Wine Festival, Sept. 28 – Oct. 8 in British Columbia. There are literally dozens of events, including intimate winemaker’s dinners, the British Columbia Wine Awards, and Cropped, which bills itself as BC’s largest wine tasting and farmers’ market. See thewinefestivals.com for more info.